Vintage diamond cuts explained: Old Mine, Old Euro, and more

Not all diamonds sparkle the same — and that’s exactly the point. When it comes to vintage and antique jewellery, the magic often lies in the details: soft edges, tall crowns, and glints of light that feel softer and more romantic compared to the precision and brilliance of modern diamonds.

 If you’ve ever looked at a vintage engagement ring and thought, Why does this diamond feel so different? — you’re probably looking at a historic diamond cut.

From Old Mine to Old European and beyond, these cuts were shaped by hand and crafted with character. Here's your guide to the most iconic vintage diamond cuts — what they are, how to spot them, and why they’re still so loved today.

Why vintage diamond cuts look different

Modern diamonds are cut for maximum sparkle under artificial light — all precision angles and laser symmetry. But before that, diamond cutting was about charm, not charts. Vintage cuts were shaped by hand and by eye, often prioritising the natural shape of the stone over perfect uniformity.

The result? Diamonds that feel alive. You’ll notice:

• More depth and height
  

• Smaller tables (the flat top facet)
  

• Larger culets (the bottom point — often visible)
  

• Warmer, softer light play — more glow than glitz.

At Gatsby, we specialise in antique rings where the cut is part of the story. These diamonds were made to reflect light the way a candle flickers. That’s part of the charm.

The main vintage diamond cuts and how to spot them

Here’s a breakdown of the most iconic antique and vintage diamond cuts you’re likely to come across when shopping for period jewellery.

1. Old Mine Cut

Era: Georgian to Victorian (1700s–1800s)
Think: Squarish, chunky, full of fire

The Old Mine Cut is one of the earliest iterations of the modern brilliant cut — and the first to intentionally maximise a diamond’s sparkle. Developed in the 18th century, it was the dominant cut style throughout the Georgian and Victorian periods, long before precision cutting tools existed.

These diamonds were cut by hand, usually by candlelight, and shaped based on the rough crystal’s natural form rather than strict proportions. The result is a wonderfully imperfect diamond: full of warmth, individuality, and historical charm.

Typical features:

• Cushion or squarish outline — not perfectly symmetrical
  

• High crown and small table, giving a steep, domed appearance
  

• Deep pavilion and a large open culet, often visible from the top
  

• 58 chunky, hand-cut facets, less uniform than modern equivalents
  

• Often shows a slightly tilted “off-centre” table — a hallmark of hand craftsmanship.
  

These proportions make for a diamond that glows rather than flashes — you get more internal fire (rainbow sparkle) and less of the stark brilliance associated with modern cuts.

How to identify an Old Mine Cut:

Look for a soft, pillow-like shape (hence why it’s often confused with cushion cuts), a visibly high crown, and that telltale large culet — the open facet at the bottom that was once considered desirable.

Need a side-by-side comparison? The Gemological Institute of America offers excellent visual guides: GIA: Diamond Cut History

Old Mine cuts aren’t just beautiful — they’re pieces of living history. Many were cut from diamonds mined in Brazil or India before the South African diamond rush, making them truly rare. Because of their age, they often sit in period-authentic Georgian or Victorian settings, complete with hand-carved details and old-world metalwork.

People love them for:

• Their unique shape — no two are exactly alike
  

• Their romantic, glowing fire — particularly under warm light
  

• Their historic value — many are over 150 years old and completely one-of-a-kind
  

• Their ethical appeal — antique diamonds require no new mining, making them a sustainable choice.
  

At Gatsby, we specialise in sourcing Old Mine cut rings that balance beauty with history — and we always inspect the cut quality, light performance, and setting integrity before listing any piece.

2. Old European Cut (Old Euro / OEC)

Era: Late Victorian to Art Deco (circa 1890s–1930s)
Think: Round, symmetrical, candlelit brilliance

The Old European Cut, often abbreviated as OEC, represents the next step in the evolution of the brilliant cut — a refinement of the Old Mine cut, shaped with improved tools but still cut entirely by hand. These diamonds were designed during a time when gas and candlelight were still the norm, so their facet arrangement prioritised fire (rainbow dispersion) over the blinding brilliance of modern diamonds.

By the late 1800s and early 1900s, diamond cutters had begun using more standardised tools and geometry, which gave rise to a rounder, more symmetrical diamond — but still with the warm, moody charm of the hand-cut era.

Typical features:

• Round outline — a notable shift from the cushion-like Old Mine cut
  

• High crown and small table — a steep, domed top profile
  

• Large open culet, often visible through the table
  

• Chunky, block-like facets — not as splintered or sparkly as modern brilliants
  

• 58 facets, but arranged differently to produce softer, broader flashes of colour.
  

What truly sets the Old European Cut apart is its fire — the prismatic flashes of colour you see when it catches the light. Unlike the razor-sharp brilliance of modern cuts, OECs glow and dance more gently, especially in warm lighting. They were made to sparkle under gas lamps, fireplaces, and candlelight — and they still do.

How to spot one:

If you’re looking at a round antique diamond with a soft glow, visible culet, and a slightly raised profile, there’s a good chance you’re looking at an Old European Cut. Often found in engagement rings from the Edwardian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco periods. Check out this guide from GIA for more visuals.

Why people love them:

Old European cuts offer a beautiful balance between old-world romance and practical wearability. They’re:

• Brighter than Old Mine cuts, but still soft and warm
  

• Fully round, making them compatible with modern settings
  

• Visibly unique, thanks to their chunky facet patterns and open culet
  

• Sustainably sourced, as they’re antique stones with no new mining involved.

We love OECs for clients who want the charm of a true antique diamond, but in a shape that still feels familiar and timeless. Each one has a personality — and that character is impossible to fake with modern cuts.

3. Transitional Cut

Era: 1920s–1940s
Think: The in-between — not quite old, not yet modern

The Transitional Cut is exactly what it sounds like: a stepping stone between the Old European Cut and the modern round brilliant. These diamonds began to appear in the 1920s and gained traction through the 1940s, a time when diamond-cutting technology was improving, but laser precision hadn’t yet arrived.

Unlike earlier hand-cut diamonds, transitional cuts were often shaped using early mechanical tools, giving them more consistent proportions — but they still retained some of the character and charm of antique cuts.

 Typical features:

• Improved symmetry compared to Old European cuts
  

• Smaller or no culet (the flat facet at the bottom tip of older diamonds)

• Larger table — the top flat facet — for more light return
  

• Shallower crown and pavilion, resulting in a slightly brighter appearance
  

• Still cut by hand, often with subtle inconsistencies and unique facet patterns.
  

These diamonds usually have 58 facets, like their modern counterparts, but the angles and proportions differ slightly, leading to a sparkle that feels both vintage and refined.

Transitional cuts are a favourite among vintage collectors and engagement ring buyers alike — and for good reason:

• The elegance and uniqueness of vintage craftsmanship
  

• Brighter light performance than older cuts like Old Mine or Old Euro
  

• More consistent proportions, making them easier to set in modern or vintage-style settings
  

• Better value — as they’re not as widely known, transitional cuts can offer exceptional beauty at a more accessible price point.
  

We often recommend transitional cut diamonds for those who want vintage character with a touch more brilliance. They're a beautiful middle ground — timeless, unique, and endlessly wearable.

Want to see a side-by-side comparison? The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) offers a breakdown of diamond cuts through history, including transitional cuts:
GIA Diamond Cut History Overview

4. Rose Cut

Era: Georgian through Victorian (1600s–1800s), with a modern revival
Think: Domed top, no sparkle — just shimmer

Rose cuts are completely different from what most people imagine when they think of diamonds. They’re flat on the bottom with a faceted, dome-shaped top — no pavilion at all. Rather than aiming for brilliance and sparkle, rose cuts were designed to catch soft, ambient light — think dewy candlelight, not LED sparkle. The result is a shimmer that’s low-key, romantic, and subtly glowing.

Typical features:

• Flat bottom — no pavilion at all
  

• Domed top covered in triangular facets, usually 3, 6, or 24
  

• No culet (the bottom point or facet of a diamond)
  

• No sparkle in the traditional sense, but a soft, diffused glow
  

• Low profile, making it ideal for rings that sit close to the finger

Because they lack a pavilion (the bottom half of a brilliant-cut diamond), rose cuts don’t have the fire or scintillation of more modern cuts — and they’re not trying to. They reflect light across the surface in a sheen rather than a sparkle, which is precisely what makes them so compelling.

Why people love it:

Subtle, antique, and incredibly romantic — perfect for those who love vintage but want something low-key. People are drawn to them for their:

• Distinctly antique feel — each one is a little irregular, full of old-world charm
  

• Understated elegance — no sparkle overload here
  

• Wearability — the flat base and low dome mean they sit close to the skin, ideal for everyday rings
  

• Rarity — genuine antique rose cuts are increasingly hard to find, and most are completely unique.
  

They’re also enjoying a modern revival — favoured by contemporary designers for their bohemian and minimalist appeal. You’ll find rose cuts in everything from Victorian cluster rings to sleek modern solitaires. 

We see rose cuts as the quiet romantics of the diamond world. They don’t shout. They shimmer. And that’s their power.

Want to learn more about the science behind rose cuts? The GIA explains their historic role and faceting here: GIA on Antique Diamond Cuts

Rose cut facet chart. Fig. 157-160 round rose, 161 oval rose, 162 drop rose, 164 side view of rose.

5. Single Cut

Era: Art Deco era (1920s–1930s), often in accent stones
Think: Simple, small, but mighty

Single cuts feature only 17–18 facets (compared to 58 in modern brilliants), and they were most often used for small side stones or pavé settings. You’ll see them in vintage eternity bands or in halo designs around a centre stone.

While its design is minimalist, its history stretches far back, with versions appearing as early as the 14th century. That said, the cut reached its peak popularity during the Art Deco era, when it became the go-to choice for accent stones in eternity bands, halo settings, and pavé designs.

Typical features:

• 17 or 18 facets (compared to 58 in modern brilliants)
  

• Usually cut with 8 crown facets and 8 pavilion facets, plus a table and sometimes a culet
  

• Round shape, often with high symmetry
  

• Often used in melee diamonds (tiny stones under 0.02 ct).

Spot them by:

Their chunkier, simpler facet pattern. While brilliant cuts glitter with intense fire, single cuts produce a softer, more subtle glint.

These diamonds weren’t designed to dazzle in isolation, but to complement a central stone — adding twinkle and texture without stealing the spotlight. In today’s market, single-cut diamonds are prized for their vintage authenticity and are often used in restoration projects or sourced to replace missing stones in antique pieces.

Despite their small size and simplicity, single-cut diamonds are essential to many of the most elegant and historically significant pieces of vintage jewellery.

They’re loved for:

• Authenticity — when restoring an antique piece, modern brilliants just won’t do
  

• Charm — their softer sparkle adds warmth and subtlety
  

• Craftsmanship — setting single cuts into pavé or milgrain designs takes skill and precision
  

• Durability — fewer, broader facets often mean less vulnerability to chipping in very small stones.
  

We’re meticulous about sourcing and matching single-cut diamonds — whether for restoring an original Art Deco band or building a vintage-inspired piece from scratch. These small stones carry a big role in the overall design story.

How to choose the right vintage cut for you

It comes down to personal taste. Some people fall in love with the soft romance of an Old Mine cut. Others are drawn to the glow of a rose cut or the symmetry of an Old Euro.

Here’s a quick guide:

At Gatsby, we hand-select antique diamonds for their beauty, history, and craftsmanship — not just for how they score on a modern chart. We’re always happy to help you find a cut that reflects your style and story.

Final thoughts: Light, legacy, and a little bit of magic

Vintage diamond cuts don’t just sparkle — they glow with character. Each one tells a story of the hands that shaped it, the tools used to cut it, and the era it came from.

Whether you're drawn to the candlelit fire of an Old Mine cut or the subtle sheen of a rose cut, these diamonds offer something modern stones can't: personality, romance, and a deep sense of history.

Looking to find your perfect cut? Explore our collection of vintage and antique rings here — or get in touch and we’ll guide you through.