Pearls have always felt a little bit magical. They don’t need cutting or polishing to shine; they emerge from the water with their lustre already intact. Antique pearl earrings capture that quiet drama beautifully – tiny, luminous orbs suspended in gold and platinum, carrying over a century of stories.
In this guide, we’ll explore where pearl earrings came from, what affects their value, and how to wear and care for them today.
A brief history of pearl earrings
Humans have prized pearls for thousands of years. Archaeologists have found natural pearls in Persian princesses’ tombs dating back to at least the 4th century BCE, and classical writers recorded laws limiting pearl-wearing to the Roman elite as a marker of status.
Across cultures, pearls have symbolised purity, luxury and power. In Europe, they became especially fashionable in the Georgian and Victorian eras, when advances in trade made them more widely available, and jewellers began combining pearls with diamonds in increasingly intricate designs.
The biggest shift came in the early 20th century with the development of cultured pearls – pearls grown under controlled conditions by oyster farmers. Natural pearls are extremely rare; cultured pearls made pearl earrings more accessible without losing the beauty and lustre that made them so sought after in the first place.
That means when you look at antique pearl earrings today, you’re often seeing:
- Victorian and Edwardian pieces set with natural saltwater pearls
- Early 20th-century designs showcasing some of the first high-quality cultured pearls
- Mid-century and later pieces where pearls are combined with modern diamond cuts for a more contemporary feel.
What makes antique pearl earrings special?
Antique pearl earrings are really about the way those gems are framed, protected and shown off.
1. Handcrafted settings and metalwork
Most antique pearl pieces were made long before mass-production and CAD design. Jewellers hand-built the settings, often in rich 18k yellow gold, platinum or a combination of the two, with fine details in the gallery and shoulders. You can see this in pieces like Gatsby’s Art Nouveau pearl & 1.07 carat diamond ring, circa 1910, where the pearl is held in a sweeping platinum design with old mine cut diamonds along the shoulders.
That level of craftsmanship carries through to antique pearl earrings: millegrain edging, engraved details and delicate bead settings all play a role in how the pearls catch the light.
2. Characterful pearls
GIA, the Gemological Institute of America, talks about seven “value factors” for pearls: size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, nacre quality and matching. Antique pearl earrings often showcase these qualities in a way modern, highly standardised strands don’t:
- Slight variations in size or shape that tell you the pearls weren’t produced to a strict template
- Soft, layered lustre created by thick nacre built up over many years
- Subtle overtones – hints of pink, silver, cream or even green over the body colour
Those individual quirks are part of the appeal.
3. A finite resource
Natural pearls, and older cultured pearls of excellent quality, are not being produced in the same way at the same scale today. Many antique earrings contain pearls from sources that have since declined or closed, making them inherently more collectable.
Gatsby’s antique pearl jewellery collection focuses on that rarity: each piece has been carefully inspected and authenticated by in-house experts before it joins the collection.
What affects the value of antique pearl earrings?
If you’re looking at a pair of antique pearl earrings and wondering why one pair costs more than another, here are the main factors to consider.
1. Natural vs cultured pearls
Natural pearls form entirely by chance without human intervention; cultured pearls are started by gently introducing a nucleus into the mollusc. Both can be beautiful, but natural pearls tend to be rarer and more valuable, especially when they are large, well-matched and accompanied by a lab report confirming their origin.
2. Quality factors
Looking closely at the pearls themselves:
- Lustre – How sharp and mirror-like the reflections appear. Higher lustre suggests thicker nacre and commands a premium.
- Surface – Antique pearls will rarely be flawless, but fewer and smaller blemishes, chips or pits are preferable.
- Shape & matching – Perfectly round pearls are traditionally the most valuable, but elegant drops, ovals and button shapes are highly desirable in earrings, especially when the pair is well matched.
- Colour – Classic creamy white is always in demand, but greys, silvers and soft pinks can be especially appealing in antique pieces.
3. The setting, era and overall design
Value isn’t just about the pearls. Antique earrings set in high-carat gold or platinum with fine diamonds, engraving or millegrain are usually more valuable than simple or badly worn settings. Certain eras – such as late Victorian, early Edwardian and Art Deco – are particularly sought after by collectors.
Gatsby’s antique & vintage earrings collection is a good place to see these differences in practice – from delicate Edwardian drops to bold mid-century designs.
How to wear antique pearl earrings today
One of the reasons antique pearl earrings remain so popular is how easy they are to wear with modern wardrobes.
If you’d like styling ideas, we already have a dedicated guide: How to style antique pearl jewellery. But building on that, here are a few ways to make antique earrings feel current:
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Everyday classics
Simple pearl studs or small drops are perfect for day-to-day wear with crisp shirts, knitwear and tailored coats. Look for understated designs that sit close to the ear and pair them with minimal makeup and clean lines.
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Evening and occasion wear
Cluster earrings with diamonds or coloured gems feel instantly dressy. Antique seed-pearl and diamond drops, for example, hold their own with silk dresses, velvet blazers or tuxedo suits.
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Mixing eras and metals
Don’t be afraid to wear antique pearl earrings with contemporary pieces. A Victorian drop can look fresh next to a modern gold hoop in a second piercing, or alongside a sleek contemporary pearl ring like this modern two pearl crossover ring in white gold.
Caring for antique pearl earrings
Pearls are relatively soft (around 2.5–4.5 on the Mohs scale), so caring for them properly is essential – especially in antique pieces where the pearls and settings may already have seen decades of wear.
GIA and other experts recommend:
- Last on, first off – Put your pearl earrings on after perfume, hairspray and makeup, and take them off before cleansing or sleeping.
- Avoid chemicals and high heat – Pearls can be damaged by acids, alcohol and strong cleaning agents, as well as prolonged high temperatures.
- Wipe after wearing – Use a very soft, clean cloth to gently wipe your pearls before storing them, removing any skin oils or residues.
- Store separately – Keep pearl earrings in a soft pouch or lined box, away from harder gemstones that could scratch them.
- Ask a professional to clean or repair – Antique pearl earrings should always be cleaned and repaired by an experienced jeweller to avoid damaging the setting or loosening the pearls.
You’ll find more advice about pearls in 10 things you didn’t know about pearls, as well as in our FAQ section on the antique pearl jewellery collection page.
Choosing your own pair
Whether you’re drawn to delicate Edwardian seed-pearl drops or bolder mid-century designs, antique pearl earrings offer a rare combination of history, softness and quiet glamour.
If you’re ready to explore, start with:
- Antique pearl jewellery – for pearl rings, bracelets and pendants as well as earrings.
- Antique & vintage earrings – to compare pearl designs with diamond, sapphire and other gemstone pieces side by side.
