Antique jewellery holds a special kind of magic — history you can wear, filled with stories, symbolism, and craftsmanship that’s stood the test of time. But with demand for vintage and antique styles on the rise, imitations are everywhere, from mass-produced lookalikes to clever replicas made to fool even a trained eye.
So, how do you know if your piece is the real thing?
Here’s a detailed, expert-backed guide to help you assess whether your jewellery is genuinely antique or a convincing imitation — including signs to look for, tests to try, and when to call in a professional.
First things first — what is antique jewellery?
Before we dive in, let’s clarify the terms.
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Antique jewellery is typically defined as being over 100 years old.
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Vintage usually means it’s 20–100 years old.
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Estate refers to any second-hand jewellery, regardless of age.
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Imitation pieces are made to look old, but they’re not. These can be high-street fashion items or deliberate fakes.
At Gatsby, we specialise in genuine antique and vintage jewellery — with detailed provenance checks and expert verification for every piece.
1. Look closely at the craftsmanship
Mass-produced modern jewellery often lacks the intricacy and attention to detail you’ll find in antique pieces.
Check for:
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Hand engraving: Antique jewellery often features detailed engraving or milgrain (a tiny beaded edge) that would be near-impossible to mass-produce.
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Symmetry (or lack thereof): Older, hand-crafted pieces often show slight asymmetry — especially in settings or cut stones.
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Tool marks: Minor tool scratches or subtle irregularities may be visible under magnification.
Gatsby tip: “No piece should look machine-perfect if it’s from the 1800s or early 1900s. Slight imperfections are often a sign of authenticity.”
2. Check for hallmarks or maker’s marks
Hallmarks are small stamps applied to the metal to indicate content, origin, and date. They're your first stop in verifying authenticity.
What to look for:
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While hallmarking has a long history in the UK, dating back to the 14th century, the current legal framework for hallmarking was established in the 1970s.
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The UK has one of the most detailed hallmarking systems in the world.
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Antique rings might feature:
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A purity stamp (e.g. 18ct, 15ct, or 9ct)
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An assay office mark (London, Birmingham, Chester, etc.)
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A date letter indicating the year of hallmarking
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A maker’s mark, unique to the jeweller
Gatsby tip: Don’t see any marks? That doesn’t necessarily mean it’s fake — some older pieces have worn smooth or were made before standardised hallmarking. Until the Hallmarking Act of 1973, it wasn't a legal requirement to hallmark jewellery. A lack of hallmark might, conversely, help authenticate an item as being vintage as modern hallmarks laws are so strict. But it's worth investigating further.
3. Examine the gemstone cuts
Gem cutting has evolved significantly over time, and antique rings often feature cuts rarely seen today.
Antique cuts include:
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Old mine cut: A cushion-shaped, slightly wonky cut popular in Georgian and Victorian eras.
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Old European cut: The forerunner to the modern round brilliant, with a smaller table and taller crown.
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Rose cut: Flat-bottomed with a domed, faceted top — very distinctive and often used in Georgian and early Victorian rings.
Gatsby tip: We regularly compare new pieces to historic gem cuts to assess authenticity. Modern imitations often feature brilliant-cut stones that didn’t exist until the 20th century.
4. Assess the materials used
Certain metals and stone combinations can help date your jewellery.
Clues to look for:
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15ct gold: Used predominantly in the UK from 1854 to 1932 — a strong indicator of antique origin.
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Platinum: Became widely used in jewellery from the early 1900s onwards.
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Paste stones: Glass imitations of diamonds popular in Georgian and Victorian eras (valuable in their own right).
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Synthetic stones: First appeared around 1900 — particularly synthetic sapphires and rubies. These may be antique, but not always valuable.
Gatsby tip: Professional jewellers can also test metal purity using non-invasive methods to confirm whether the gold is consistent with the stated karat and age.
5. Consider the setting style
Each era had its signature setting styles. Recognising these can help pinpoint whether a piece is antique, vintage, or a reproduction.
For example:
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Georgian (1714–1837): Closed-back settings, foiled gemstones, elaborate gold work.
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Victorian (1837–1901): Claw settings, symbolic motifs (hearts, snakes, acrostic rings). Want to see some examples? Check out our victorian pieces!
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Edwardian (1901–1915): Delicate filigree, platinum, diamonds with openwork. See some examples of our Edwardian pieces.
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Art Deco (1920s–1930s): Geometric shapes, calibré-cut stones, bold contrasts. Browse our Art Deco pieces.
Our jewellery team are trained in historical design and setting techniques — and we use this knowledge daily when sourcing and verifying stock.
6. Ask for provenance (or a second opinion)
Any reputable antique jewellery dealer should be transparent about where a piece came from and provide a valuation or written description of authenticity.
If you’re unsure, get a second opinion from a certified gemmologist or antique jewellery expert — especially if the piece is valuable.
At Gatsby, every piece we sell comes with full provenance information and a detailed valuation certificate for insurance and peace of mind.
7. Be cautious with common red flags
Some telltale signs that your "antique" may not be what it claims:
🚩 Suspiciously low price for a supposedly rare piece
🚩 Brand-new shank on an otherwise antique ring (could indicate parts replacement)
🚩 Modern clasps or fastenings on necklaces and bracelets
🚩 Generic “vintage-style” listings online without clear origin or details
🚩 Over-polishing — sometimes used to mask wear or disguise added elements
Final thoughts: Trust your eyes — and your instincts
It’s easy to fall in love with a beautiful piece of jewellery. But when it comes to antique pieces, the story behind the sparkle is just as important. Authentic antique jewellery has a weight, history, and craftsmanship that imitations rarely match — and learning to spot the difference is all part of the joy of collecting.
If you’re ever in doubt, talk to someone who knows what to look for. At Gatsby Jewellery, we’re always happy to answer questions, review your pieces, or guide you toward genuine antique jewellery that’s worth treasuring.
FAQs
Is all antique jewellery valuable?
Not always. Age doesn’t guarantee value — condition, craftsmanship, rarity, and materials all play a role.
Can paste stones still be antique?
Yes! Paste jewellery was incredibly popular in the Georgian and Victorian eras and is now collectable in its own right.
Can an antique ring be resized?
Often, yes — but it depends on the design and condition. We recommend working with an antique jewellery specialist to avoid damaging the piece.
How can I tell if my ring is Edwardian or Art Deco?
It often comes down to the design. Edwardian rings are soft, lacy, and platinum-heavy. Art Deco pieces are bold, geometric, and often feature coloured stones and symmetry.